All Chef Must Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Ranks 4th on Roll of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.

Adam Cook
Adam Cook

Lena Visser is a creative enthusiast and writer who loves exploring art, design, and mindful living.